![]() ![]() The radius chine will have a 2' diameter throughout, hand laid up, with the rest of the boat made by resin infusion on a flat table. The construction method will be modified Kelsall, with a radius chine design. ![]() ![]() I had a bad experience in 1971 sailing from Hawaii to Seattle, and decided to learn yacht design in self-defense. I am designing my own boat, as I have been an amateur designer since the days of planimeters, splines, and French curves. I'd go with manual, but this is a 65' boat we are talking about, and it will operate in coral waters, where a rope-chain rode isn't a practical option.Īnd, if it so common to do this, why can't I find one lousy wiring diagram for the idea? Just price the cables to run a big electric anchor windlass with 12 volts versus 24 volts, and you will see my point. There will be 24 volts (about 28 volts with an alternator) if two 12-volt batteries are wired together in series: Connect the. I would make the whole boat 24 volt, if only the engines came with a 24 volt option.Īnd, I am having no trouble finding 24volt gear, except for 2 or 3 low draw electronic items, which I will power with a DC to DC converter, which costs about $85.Īs far as I am concerned, 12 volt systems are an obsolete relic of the days when boats had much, much less electrical gear. Amp output will be the sum of the multiple batteries wired this way. I consider this the simplest approach, actually. The engines use 12 volts to run, and won't run without it. These engines have onboard computers and electronic injection. This would be beter manageable in a charger based system, where you could throttle.24 volts are better than 12 volts because.Ģ4 volt is better than 12 volts, because the wiring is cheaper and you don't spend as much money heating wires. 500W makes no sense it seems to me, as this gets below the multiplus threshold). In the this setup it seems the throttling of the 1000W could only be done, by cutting ACin (4.3 A being the minimum limit) on the multiplus or switching the inverter on-off (limit it to e.g. UPDATE: A potential weak point (to be checked in real life) could be the alternator overheating when having to deliver the 1000W with the engine idle => low rpm => low cooling => it gets too hot and brakes. The system voltage has to be higher than. The system voltage refers to an airplane’s operating voltage, which is always higher than battery voltage. 28-volt systems utilize 24-volt batteries. Alternator Upgrade Kit for your A2 8.3L Turbo Diesel 5 Ton trucks Lighter, more powerful, more. The electrical system on most airplanes is either a 14- or 28-volt system. Looking forward to your views, spend many hours reading, but only experience makes a master, and that I lack. 160 AMP 24 Volt M939A2 - 5 TON - Alternator Upgrade Kit. I would put a CerboGX to tie stuff together, and it seems to me I could use that to eventually add a temperature sensor on the alternator which the GX could use to kill the inverter, e.g. I don't risk to make a loop as when the engine runs, the charger will detect high voltage on the starter side, and quit charging. When connecting to a landline (or other 230V source), I disconnect the inverter and replace it with the landline, the UPS function makes this transparent on the ACout side.Įventually I can add a low power 230V 24V charger to AC out, and use that to maintain the truck starter batteries during longer stops (e.g. Or do you see a benefit of using a Phoenixįringe benefit, I can boost the AC out 2400W of the multiplus to 3400W (or about) by running the engine, and while I drive my base equipment runs on the alternator, only using the mutiplus/battery/solar for powerassist, and for charging my living batteries with whatever is spare of the 1000W. As the inverter can be rather simple, the 24 1000W (or let's say 1500W to be safe), can be a more plain (cheaper) brand as Victron. If I put a Cyrix 230A between alternator/starter battery & the inverter which I can program a bit, I should be able to make sure the invertor only kicks in when the engine is running. In order not to stretch my alternator, and leave my truck stater batteries alone, I need a multiplus where I can set a very low limit on the ACin, only the 48/3000 model with limit minimum of 4.3 A stays in the 1000W ballpark (5000 is 6A). Now I could run 24-48 DCDC convertors, but to get to 25A on 48V takes 3.īut I could also run a 24V inverter and use it to convert my 50A spare of 80A 24V alternator in a 1000W 230V generator, which I connect to the ACin of the multiplus. ![]() I would prefer to run my "ESS" on 48V as it makes technically and financially most sense. The engine of my truck exists with 24V 35/55/80A alternators, so I assume that on the 80A model I could use about 50A (so roughly 1000W) without impacting the core of the truck. Still designing, came onto an approach which seems to me almost to good to be true (in my case), so I have the suspicion I make a mistake. ![]()
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